A Mid-Winter Break: Anyone Been to Hong Kong?
Those of you who have either: a)been reading this blog; or: b) lived in Seoul in the winter will be aware that it is Very Cold here. Snow-on-the-ground-for-weeks cold. Takes-your-breath-away cold. Frozen-fingers-without-gloves cold.
Last year, I coped with the shock of my first real winter in 11 years by writing a lot about how cold it was, whining a lot, and escaping with my family for two weeks to Thailand. A couple of weeks in steamy Bangkok and Phuket did wonders for my mood and my outlook. Unfortunately, this year, due to a number of factors beyond our control, we did not book a Christmas getaway, which resulted in my mood and outlook not having wonders done for them. I will leave it to your imagination, Gentle Reader, as to what that looks like on a daily basis. (I should add, that, when I moved to Arizona with its nearly endless sunshine and warm, sunny winters, I was stunned to discover what a pleasant person I could be in January and February, so you can just imagine what I'm like right now.)
It should come as no surprise to you, then, that when I suggested we spend our upcoming Lunar New Year holidays somewhere warm, MrLogical agreed with alacrity. Although the actual holidays are only three days long, they translate into a 5-day long weekend, which - to my way of thinking - was more than ample time to travel
After juggling our three schedules, checking flight costs and times, hotel availability, and reading far too many reviews on TripAdvisor, I finally booked a trip to Hong Kong, after which I immediately began second-guessing my decision. This was because, while TripAdvisor is 99% awesome (real advice, real people, real input,) it is 1% overwhelming for someone like me, who takes something like hotel bookings
Every time I started to click 'Book,' I began to second-guess myself. I envisioned us trapped in a nightmarish hotel full of monstrous concierges, sneering bellboys and rock-hard beds, pitifully waving our iPads around the lobby trying to log onto the WiFi because it would turn out that I'd not noticed that this particular hotel probably didn't offer WiFi in the rooms**, but only in the lobby, and which would turn out to be 'really slow' instead of 'lightning-fast!'(actual descriptions from actual reviewers.) I saw us wearily traveling for hours on trains just to get to the nearest Dim Sum restaurant or tourist destination due to my poor hotel choices. ( Of course, my choices were relatively limited anyway, since all the really smart people had booked their holidays in Hong Kong back in October-but I digress.) Finally, after a certain amount of anguish, I did the cyber-equivalent of closing my eyes and sticking a pin in a map and fatalistically booked us flights and a hotel.
Once I'd done that, I immediately felt better, since it was more or less out of my hands. But then - because I am an inveterate planner - I got busy deciding what we needed to do. Had I simply confined my research to reading TripAdvisor comments, I probably would have been fine, but -never satisfied - I began soliciting opinions from human beings. Our friend T, who had been to Hong Kong twice, recommended that we go to Macau while we were there, which we decided to do. Just as I was about to book a tour, another friend told me that she had not included it in their itinerary because they had heard it was just a big Casino. My mother reminisced about High Tea at the Peninsula - although I question whether MrL and Son#2 will wax equally enthusiastic. Points of agreement by all included some sort of a Harbour Tour, a trip to Victoria Peak, and a visit to the Temple Street Night Market, but others suggested Lantau Island, the Fishing Village, and a Pink Dolphin Tour were must-dos.
After
Have any of you been to/lived in Hong Kong? What's really worth seeing and doing? What's overrated? We'll be there during the New Year's Celebrations (Dragon Parade, but not the Fireworks) and plan to try and see that, but otherwise, we're open to suggestions. I'm not a shopper (and besides, Seoul is full of high-end retail) so not interested in malls or shopping centers, although outdoor markets are on the list. Historic/Cultural/Natural things are more our cup of tea.
I should also be perfectly honest here for a moment: if I travel to Hong Kong and do nothing but sit on a park bench for 5 days and appreciate the fact that the temperatures are above freezing, I will return home a satisfied woman.
But I'd love to hear what you have to say anyway.
*It is entirely possible that MrL and I - with our Asian upbringings - have been in or through Hong Kong before, but, if so, neither of us remembers it.
**We are a very wired sort of family, so this is an important issue. Even more so because we're traveling with a teenager.
Comments
Have a wonderful trip and enjoy the relative warmth!
"Most dim sum restaurants in Tsim Sha Tsui are good. There's one at the Star Ferry, head for the clockhouse and behind that is some kind of marriage bureau and the only dim sum restaurant on that side.
Or for a spicier dim sum there is the Shanghainese version at Ye Shanghai on the 6th floor of the Hong Kong hotel.
on the Island then the restaurant in City Hall does good dim sum"
It may not be what you are looking for, but at least you will know that the dim sum will be good! Emma :)
Stacy, we are definitely doing the Peak trip/Buddha sightseeing and maybe Lantau Island as well. I will have to look into Cheung Chau, I hadn't heard of it. Son#2 is a serious foodie and will probably be all in favor of a good meal in a nice restaurant - although I don't think he'd enjoy the antiquing like we would! The Langham was one of the places we looked at but they didn't have vacancies for the days we were there- I think they are a great spot to watch fireworks, so they are booked at New Year. Hong Kong is absolutely swarming with good hotels, so it seems like it's more a matter of location. I ended up picking a hotel on the Kowloon side since I knew we would be going to watch the Night Parade at Tsim Sha Tsui and figured it would be easier if we were closer. As far as the teenager goes, he has already expressed a desire to go bungy-jumping off the Macau Tower, so you can see we have some differing expectations. Emma, thanks for the insider Dim Sum advice, I've already written it down - and we are staying right near TST, so it should be easy! We will have to make sure to go out for mandu (Korean dumplings) before we go, just so we can compare. ; )
I knew I'd get good stuff if I asked ya'll! (I think my inner Texan is emerging...)
I'm not a shopper either. Cheung Chau (which I see mentioned) is a nice change of pace. Grabbing a bus (sit on the top level for the crazy/amazing/thrilling views)and heading to Stanley on the south side of HK Island is fun. Stanley Market is and indoor/outdoor covered market full of touristy stuff for the most part, but on the back side of the market is the beach and lots of lovely cafes right on the water.
Not sure how long the Andy Warhol exhibit will be at the Hong Kong Museum of Art in TST, but that was totally worth the visit (I think it was HK$10 on Wednesdays).
Foodwise, we'd always head to HK from Macau to hit the American chains we craved like Outback Steakhouse and some of the spiciest Mexican food we've ever had (lots of little places in Midlevels), not for the Chinese food since that was plentiful (and cheaper) in Macau. When we actually lived in Hong Kong the kids were 1-2 and 3-4, so we didn't do too much that wasn't little-kid friendly. I'll think more about it and get back to you!
As I say, I haven't been for a while, but definitely do the trip up the Peak Tram (think of me, I used to take it to school) and then walk around Lugard Road. Mount Austin is also worth a visit (taxi ride from the top of the Peak Tram).
Bear in mind that the weather might be really misty at this time of year, though, on the Peak. So you want to stick to lower elevations and do some shopping, or take the ferry over to Lamma Island. But it is a fantastic place and you will love it. Email me if you want to know more about specific areas - where you are staying, perhaps.
Can't help you at all re Hong Kong but asking people for help on my blog has always worked wonders for me (Sweden and Suffolk itineraries come to mind).